>> The last batch of backstage snaps for the Spring 2011 season is here and includes Karolina Kurkova smoking a fake cigar at Hermes; Sasha Pivovarova and Carmen Kass at John Galliano; and up close and personal looks at the Alexander McQueen detailing. All that plus more behind the scenes action from Chloe, Giambattista Valli, Stella McCartney, Yves Saint Laurent, Valentino, Costume National, and Akris in the gallery.
Photos: Greg Kessler
>> The Susan Sontag quote on every Louis Vuitton attendee's seat was a clue: "The relation between boredom and camp taste cannot be overestimated," it said. What followed, starting with model Kristina Salinovic — her jet-black hair and white-streaked bangs an ode to Sontag — was "total camp glamour, clothes for the extrovert; chinoiserie, the 1920s, everything that Paris stands for," in Jacobs's words. "Basically, I didn't want anything natural," he continued. "I wanted everything overly stylized. The iris prints — like the screens you’d see in a seventies apartment — but so bad!”
The runway was black faux marble, the backdrop gold and black fringed curtains with three stuffed tigers in front. Jacobs freely admitted that he was inspired by the early work of Japanese designers in Paris — like Kenzo Takada: "Of course, these are my references. I love the exoticism, the way Paris embraced Orientalism." He further explained: “My first job was with Kansai Yamamoto. He did all those sequined motif sweaters. I always reference other designers and don’t care if I admit it!”
Kristen McMenemy closed out the show — which featured shoes with giraffe legs as heels — in a pair of black trousers, her torso painted in black and white zebra stripes. As WWD put it, "It may not have been his most stellar or controversial outing for Vuitton, but it was playful, exuberant and glam, bam, thank-you ma’am. And a whole lot of fun."
>> Sales at Miu Miu — which makes most of its money with shoes and bags — have doubled in the past four years. And Prada executives are doing everything they can to fight the perception that Miu Miu is a more affordable little sister to Prada — in some cases, Miu Miu's shoe prices are now higher than Prada's, and Prada Chief Operating Officer Sebastian Suhl looks at the two as "friendly competitors."
In light of the brand's upwards movement, Miuccia Prada unveiled her Spring 2011 Miu Miu collection in its largest venue yet — a specially erected stage in the Palais Royal, painted red in a nod to red carpets and the collection's exploration of "fame and everyone wanting it," according to Prada.
It was surely no coincidence that young rising stars Rihanna, Dakota Fanning, and Mia Wasikowska were front row for the star-spangled show, which also featured samples of the American Idol theme song on the soundtrack.
>> Rumors of Stefano Pilati's fate at Yves Saint Laurent have been circling for months now, some purporting that he may be headed to Giorgio Armani, and others just saying that he's on his way out, and headhunters have been employed to interview replacements.
Pilati's Spring 2011 collection was an ode to the Saint Laurent codes, which WWD called "impeccable," "stellar," and "perfection," and Style.com deemed "a collection that should resonate loud and long for Pilati." Cathy Horyn, however, wasn't so convinced: "The problem with the clothes is they don’t get under your skin. They’re a little boring, if you really want to know. Mr. Pilati’s choice of French blue, a soft burnt orange, tan and a bit of black-flecked green seem rather flat in a season of fantastical color."
And if there's any credence to the rumors of Pilati's fate at Saint Laurent hanging in the balance, Horyn's next paragraph certainly doesn't help his case: "Mr. Pilati has another problem, or rather the YSL company does. In the six years he has been the house designer, it’s hard to think of a shape or a color or a detail for which he is known. He has done saucy ruffles, then clerical references, then sleek pants suits with little pom-poms, then modernist tunics, then Japanese-like cutting, then hot leather bustiers, and loose dresses with strawberries. But what does he stand for? It’s never fair or accurate to compare two designers — different circumstances, different design methods — but Phoebe Philo is a very good example of a designer who in a short time has created shapes and motifs for Céline that are recognizable. Whether you like them or not, or find them original, the designs at Céline are very clear and impactful. More than that, the clothes seem to be desirable. And Mr. Pilati hasn’t been able to engage the fashion tribe on that level."
>> The latest from backstage at Paris Fashion Week: Coco Rocha and her husband James Conran hanging pre-Christian Dior with Maryna Linchuk, Karlie Kloss playing air guitar at Jean Paul Gaultier, and Roland Mouret having a moment backstage with Daiane Conterato. All that, plus more snaps from Lanvin, Haider Ackermann, Pedro Lourenco, and Viktor & Rolf.
Photos: Greg Kessler
Vanessa Traina looks like a class act in her sporty green and black topper on day two of Paris Fashion Week. Paired with cropped flared trousers, a simple black tee, and pointy-toe pumps, she appears as modernity incarnate. Emulate her look with a similar pair of pants from Diane von Furstenberg, a quilted nylon jacket from Burberry, and black heels from Rupert Sanderson.
Left to right: Diane von Furstenberg Cavaro Pants ($245), Vanessa Traina at Paris Fashion Week, Burberry Quilted Nylon Jacket ($695), Ian R.N. Chiffon T-Shirt ($173), Nancy Gonzalez Large Crocodile Clutch ($2,800), Rupert Sanderson Pumps ($266, originally $590)
Photos: Greg Kessler
>> With Paris Fashion Week in full swing, we've got a look at Daria Werbowy and Carmen Kass backstage at Balmain — the latter showing off her new crop; Crystal Renn, Sessilee Lopez, Hilary Rhoda, and Coco Rocha all having a ball at Zac Posen; plus behind the scenes snaps from Dries van Noten, Nina Ricci, Rochas, and Rick Owens.
Photos: Greg Kessler
Marie Claire's style and accessories director, Taylor Tomasi Hill, took to the Paris streets on Fashion Week day two wearing a fresh ensemble comprised of a slouchy charcoal sweater, sequin tribal print skirt by Ashish, Balenciaga boots, and Miu Miu clutch. Eclecticism at its best, and we can't get over her gray peep-toe boots. Emulate the look with a printed dress by Rachel Pally, loose-fit gray sweater by CeCe, and platform boots by Carvela.
Left to right: Daisy Knights Studded Ring ($255), Michael Kors Silver Watch ($225), Taylor Tomasi Hill at Paris Fashion Week, Halston Heritage Leather Clutch ($245), Alexander Wang Tortoise Shell Sunglasses ($355), Carvela Platform Boots ($270), Rachel Pally Tribal Print Dress ($118)
Photos: Greg Kessler
>> Christophe Decarnin's Sex Pistols-inspired Spring 2011 show left watchers squarely in two camps: those who were still feeling the Balmania and those who weren't.
"Yikes," Cathy Horyn wrote of the slashed, studded, and safety-pinned collection. "Mr. Decarnin isn’t one for change, but couldn’t he have hit a fashion button other than redial?" She continued: "The clothes were great for showing off the models’ long bodies, and so will produce sexy photographs, but punk is now a style cliché. That Balmain is one of the most expensive labels, with a plain undershirt (without holes) costing around $450, makes the notion of a safety-pinned jacket something of a joke — and not even a very clever one." Style.com's Nicole Phelps felt similarly: "The question [is]: Is Balmainia still so strong that women will shell out the serious bucks that a crystal- and metal-studded jacket is going to cost, when the look is so DIY?"
Vogue.com's Sarah Mower countered: "It would be missing the point of Balmain to say that there is no garment in this collection you couldn’t source at a street market. The sheer blatant obviousness of putting on a display which contains nothing much more than shredded tanks, micro-denim shorts, pelmet skirts, studded biker jackets, and spray-on jeans is a big two fingers-up to fashion snobbery. Yet, wow: The heat of the sexual energy generated at this show is more than you’ll witness anywhere. And if it annoys fashion intellectuals? Job done." WWD agreed: "This was not intellectual fashion, nor does it pretend to be. And at face value, the collection once again lived up to its reputation as the label for fun, flashy clothes for women with money — lots of it — who want to feel young." Also worth a note: Decarnin went without dresses or gowns this season.
>> Carine Roitfeld's masquerade ball last night, celebrating 90 years of Vogue Paris and loosely Eyes Wide Shut-themed, meant lots of sheer gowns, and lots of show attendees preoccupied with finding a mask yesterday. Anna Dello Russo, inspired by Lady Gaga, paired a Gareth Pugh headpiece with her custom Emilio Pucci gown. Jean Paul Gaultier designed a metal mask for himself adorned with long feathers: "Yes, they're giant eyelashes, acting like hair -- since I'm missing some as you can see — so instead I've gone for this black plume."
Tyra Banks made do with cut up fishnets, Sasha Pivovarova got her mask "from a sex shop," and Lily Donaldson wore a red tulle veil to match her Christian Dior gown: “I made it myself. I went all the way up to the fabric district in Montmartre today.” Stephen Jones made Karlie Kloss's star spangled mask to go with her Christian Dior gown, and Riccardo Tisci did Mariacarla Boscono's over the top feathered hat, while he looked to Philip Treacy to custom make his mask.
While there was plenty of mask ogling, Carine Roitfeld was more preoccupied with other thoughts. “Oh my goodness, even the models are eating, it’s amazing!” she laughed, as Lily Donaldson took a leaf from a chocolate cabbage.
